12 August 2005

Southern Right Whales return to Hermanus in South Africa

For the next three months dozens of mega-ton whales will entertain tens of thousands of people near Hermanus with their breaches and sky-hops, deep dives and flipper flops.

Baby shower: A Southern Right female and her calf cruise through the waters off the coast of Hermaus. Photos: Leon Lestrade, Cape ArgusEarlier this week, pilot Evan Austen took to the skies in his little Cessna for his "WW", his weekly whale count, for his fellow-citizens below.

One, two, three - 20, 50...

"There are 63 whales in the bay!" he whooped.

And on the ground the whale tourism industry stepped up a gear into frenzied action.

In boat and kayak, from cliff-top and in aircraft, the whale-watchers set out to see them.

"What a day for flying!" said the pilot.

Hoisting a sail: A whale raises its giant fluke in the sea near Hermanus.He took off from his Stanford airstrip, banked sharply and headed for the long stretch of pristine coast between Hermanus and Gansbaai.

His passengers were immediately rewarded.

Mothers and calves, pods of half a dozen, the whales were enjoying the winter sunshine as much as anyone.

"They don't even know we're up here," Austen grinned, as he put his plane into a tight, circular turn.

He never dips below 300m above sea level.

But with one wing dipped on Wednesday, his passengers could see up to 20 whales at a time.

Across Walker Bay, there's more excitement as the crew at Southern Right Charters gun their boat's engines.

The company is one of three with boat-based whale-watching licences in the area - one in Kleinbaai, one in Gansbaai - and Southern Right Charters work from Hermanus towards Kleinmond. Up to 42 tourists at a time strap on lifejackets as the catamaran heads west.

Rising: A Southern Right whale begins to breach.Near Hawston they'll often spy the fin of a Bryde's whale, so elusive and shy. And then the big guns - up to 58 tons - just behind the backline of the crunching surf.

Back ashore another actor is performing - the world's only Whale Crier, Wilson Salukazana.

With a billboard round his neck, he advises tourists on which way to head.

Hermanus's sea frontage is edged with an 11km cliff-top walk from the New Harbour to Grotto Beach, passing coves such as Kwaaiwater and Die Neus, Preekstoel and Tamatiebank.

Most of the coastline - and the sea beyond - falls within the Walker Bay Marine Reserve, where motorised seafaring is forbidden.

Only a brightly coloured school of kayaks can be seen, gliding quietly out into the big blue.

But there are still some people who would rather not fly, sail, cycle or even stroll.

Near the town's Old Harbour, you'll find a stone amphitheatre where tourists loll, watching the performance unfold below.

And for the peckish, Bientang's Cave restaurant is right there, peering out of a rock-hung cliff grotto.

There you can sip hot chocolate while the mammoth plankton munchers bathe in peace, sometimes not 50m away.

It may be mid-winter, but the show's rolling across the Cape's greatest stage.

It could be called, you could say, the Theatre in the Bay.

Where are the whales?
Call the Whale Crier on 073 214 6949
Southern Right Charters: Call Gail on 082 353 0550
Kayaking: Call Walker Bay Adventures on 082 739 0159
African Wings air tours: Call Evan Austen on 082 555 7605.

The Hermanus Whale Festival runs from September 23-26.

Source: www.iol.co.za

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